What are Onsen?

Onsen (温泉) are natural hot springs and deeply rooted in Japanese bathing culture. They are considered beneficial for both body and mind – and if you want to get some basic information first, you will find a detailed introduction in the article All about Onsen in Japan.

Takaragawa Onsen – Overnight Trip from Tokyo

Takaragawa Onsen is one of the most beautiful Onsen in Japan and is located deep in the mountains of Gunma. Huge, natural pools await you here directly by the wild Takaragawa River. The special feature: Most of these outdoor baths (Rotenburo) are traditionally mixed (Konyoku). Don’t worry, it is mandatory today to wear special bathing wear, which you receive at the accommodation. This keeps the experience relaxed and comfortable for everyone. There is hardly anything more beautiful than sitting in the warm water while the cold mountain river rushes by next to you.

However, do not expect a pulsating village life outside the facility – Takaragawa Onsen is really in the middle of nowhere. There are hardly any shops or cafés around, and the surroundings seem almost a bit deserted. In return, the Ryokan itself offers everything you need to forget the outside world. After the bath in the river, a traditional Kaiseki dinner awaits you in the evening.

Tip

Start your time out in the mountains with light luggage. It is best to use the Luggage Service to simply send your large suitcase ahead or leave it at the hotel in Tokyo. You can find out exactly how this works stress-free and how to set off with just a backpack in the article Luggage service in Japan.

Access

The journey is surprisingly uncomplicated and makes the place ideal for a short overnight trip. From Tokyo Station, take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Jōmō-Kōgen (approx. 75 min.). From there, a shuttle bus from the hotel takes you directly into the seclusion.

Kurokawa Onsen on Kyushu

Kurokawa Onsen is hidden deep in the mountains of Kyushu and seems almost like a place out of time. Instead of neon signs and concrete bunkers, you will find traditional wooden buildings here that nestle harmoniously into the narrow valley. It is quiet – just the right thing to escape everyday life completely. The special thing about this place: The whole village sees itself as one single, huge Ryokan. The alleys are the hallways, the inns are the rooms. Everything seems to be cast from one mold, creating an incredibly relaxed atmosphere and making Kurokawa one of the most beautiful Onsen in Japan.

The absolute highlight for visitors is the Nyuto Tegata, a wooden bathing pass. With this, you are not tied to your own hotel but can flexibly try three different Rotenburo (outdoor baths) of other Ryokans. This way you can relax and hop from bath to bath and test the different mineral springs.

It becomes particularly magical in winter or in the evening. Then handmade bamboo lanterns bathe the river and the small bridges in a warm light. When the steam of the hot springs rises and you only hear the rushing of the water, the Japanese idyll is perfect. So definitely stay there overnight – it is worth it.

Tip

The accommodation inn Noshiyu is particularly beautiful. Especially the combination of well-kept grounds and relaxed bathing area makes it so easy to really switch off – exactly this quiet, traditional atmosphere is typical for Kurokawa Onsen as a whole.

Access

It is best to travel here by rental car. It is the most convenient option to reach the remote mountain region flexibly. The drive itself is a real highlight thanks to the spectacular views of Kyushu’s volcanic landscape. Since the alleys in the historic center are extremely narrow, it is advisable to head directly for the parking lot of your accommodation or the public parking areas on the outskirts and then explore the village in a relaxed manner on foot.

Zao Onsen and Ginzan Onsen in Japan’s Snowy North

If you like it a bit wilder and more rustic, Zao Onsen in the north (Yamagata Prefecture) is an absolute highlight. The place is famous for its extremely acidic, sulfurous water, which smells intense but is supposed to be fantastic for the skin. Here you really feel like you are in another world, especially in winter when the famous Juhyo (huge, frozen trees known as “Snow Monsters”) characterize the landscape. Many of the traditional Ryokans and public bathhouses here are still very pristine, with wooden tubs and dense clouds of steam drifting through the alleys.

It is the perfect place if you want to combine skiing and Onsen, as the slopes are often right on the doorstep of the accommodations. But even without skis, trudging through the deep snow and then warming up in the hot, milky-blue water is an unforgettable experience.

Tip

From Zao Onsen, a side trip to Ginzan Onsen is recommended – and if you thought Kurokawa was idyllic, Ginzan takes it up a notch. This tiny place is quite rightly often described as one of the most beautiful Onsen in Japan and looks like a postcard from the Taisho era come to life.

Magnificent, multi-story wooden houses stand to the left and right of the small river, beautifully illuminated in the evening. There are no modern disturbances, no cars in the center – only pedestrians in Yukatas and the splashing of the water. Since accommodations here are often booked out months in advance and very expensive, a day trip (or evening trip for the lighting atmosphere) is a super alternative to still experience this time-travel atmosphere.

Access

The most convenient way is the Yamagata Shinkansen Tsubasa from Tokyo Station or Ueno. The journey takes approx. 2.5 to 3 hours and takes you directly to Yamagata Station. An important note: All seats on this train are reserved, so you should book your ticket in advance. Once in Yamagata, simply change to the local bus to Zao Onsen.

Etiquette – What you need to know

1. Tattoos are no go. While there are some more modern thermal baths that allow tattoos, in most Onsen, publicly displaying tattoos is prohibited. You can opt for private baths instead.
2. Generally, men (男) and women (女) bathe separately. You leave your clothes in one of the baskets in the changing area. You can store valuables in a locker.
3. In a Japanese Onsen, bathing naked is the norm. Some Ryokans offer swimwear for mixed baths.
4. Thorough washing before bathing is mandatory. Onsen provide separate washing areas where you traditionally rinse off on a small stool.
5. The small towel provided in the Onsen is placed on the head during bathing to regulate body temperature.
6. Submerging completely is not preferred. Instead, find a cozy spot and enjoy the view.
7. Using cell phones in the Onsen is not allowed, neither for calling nor for taking photos.
8. The water can be extremely hot. However, there are often several pools and depending on where you sit it can be hotter or cooler.

Costs & Opening hours

The cost for an overnight stay in a Ryokan, including access to the Onsen, is approximately 30,000 – 45,000 yen per night.

The entrance fee for a public Onsen ranges from approximately 200 to 2,000 yen.

Opening hours are typically from early morning (9:00 – 11:00 AM) until evening (8:00 – 11:00 PM). In some Ryokans, the Onsen opens very early with sunrise.